Thursday, 27 March 2014

                                         
                        हिमालय : एक सुंदर व्यसन 

               एखाद्या दिवशी भल्या पहाटे घराबाहेर पडल्यावर बाहेरची थंड हवा, हळूच सुरु झालेली पक्ष्यांची किलबिल ऐकली कि हिमालयात आल्या सारखे  वाटायला लागते . गेली चार वर्ष माझ्या हिमालय भेटीत खंड पडलाय आणि त्या आठवणीनी सारखे काहीतरी राहून गेल्यासारखे  वाटत राहते. हिमालयातल्या वातावरणाची इतकी सवय झालीये कि जणू ते डोंगर माझे दुसरे घरच आहेत.
          माझा हिमालयाशी सर्वात पहिला सामना झाला तो बारा वर्षांपूर्वी, माझ्या माउंटेनीअरींग कोर्स च्या निमित्ताने. हा कोर्स होता उत्तरकाशीला असलेल्या नेहरू माउंटेनीअरींग इंस्टीट्युट मध्ये. हिमालयाचा हा भाग म्हणजे गढवाल हिमालय. एक महिन्याच्या कोर्स मध्ये अठरा दिवस डोंगरात ट्रेनिंग साठी घालवायचे होते. आम्हाला या साठी नेले गेले ते गंगोत्रीला. ज्या दिवशी आम्ही गंगोत्री गावात पोहचलो आणि आजूबाजूचा हिमाच्छादित शिखरांचा देखावा नजरेत भरला तेव्हा मी अक्षरशः हिमालयाच्या प्रेमातच पडले. आमचा पहिला मुक्काम होता तो गोमुखला. गंगोत्री हिमनदीचे मुख ते गोमुख. भारतातील सर्वात मोठ्या आणि पवित्र नदीचे उगमस्थान. तिचे तिथे नाव आहे भागीरथी. गोमुखातून सतत उसळत , फेसाळत, गर्जना करत वाहणाऱ्या प्रचंड जलप्रवाहाकडे पाहताना सभोवतालच्या प्रत्येक गोष्टीचा किंबहुना स्वतःचाही विसर पडतो. तिथल्या वास्तव्यातला अजून एक अविस्मरणीय नजारा म्हणजे शिवलिंग शिखराचा. पहाटे सूर्याची पहिली किरणे शिवालिंगच्या माथ्यावर पडल्यावर तो डोंगरमाथा सोनकळसाप्रमाणे चमकताना पाहणे हे एक स्वर्गसुखच होते. या ट्रेक मध्ये भरल हे प्राणी हि पाहायला मिळाले. उंच कड्यांवर सहजपणे उड्या  मारत फिरणारा भरलचा कळप बघताना त्या जीवांच कौतुक वाटते.

शिवलिंग शिखर 
          त्या हिमालय भेटीनंतर मला हिमालयाची जबरदस्त ओढ निर्माण झाली. मग मी हिमालयीन ट्रेकला जाणे सुरु केले. मनाली भागात भृगु लेक हा माझा पहिला ट्रेक होता आणि त्यानंतर हमता पास. या दोन्ही ट्रेक्स मध्ये मी बर्फाची भरपूर मजा घेतली. कमरेपर्यंतच्या बर्फातून चालणे हे एक दिव्यच होते. त्यानंतर उत्तरांचल मधला पिंढारी ग्लेशियरचा ट्रेक मी केला. या ट्रेकचा बराचसा मार्ग नंदा देवी राष्ट्रीय उद्यानातून जातो. त्यामुळे प्राणी, पक्षी, फुलांची रेलचेल होती. बर्फ अजिबात मिळाला नाही पण पाऊस भरपूर. पिंढारी ग्लेशियरच रूप गंगोत्री ग्लेशियर पेक्षा खूपच वेगळे आहे. मूळ ग्लेशियर आणि जेथपर्यंत लोकांना जाता येते तो 'o' पॉइन्ट यांच्यात प्रचंड खोल दरी निर्माण झालेली आहे. काही वर्षांपूर्वी झालेल्या भूस्खालानाचा तो परिणाम आहे. त्यामुळे ही हिमनदी दुरूनच पहावी लागते. समोरच नंदादेवी,नंदाखाट, बलजौरी अशा अनेक हिमशिखरांची भव्य डोंगररांग दिसते. चालून चालून आलेला सगळा शीण हे दृश्य पाहून नकळत निघूनही जातो.

पिंढारी ग्लेशियर 
           अश्या प्रकारे दरवर्षी एक याप्रमाणे मी ट्रेक करत होते आणि प्रत्येक वेळी मनाने हिमालयाच्या जास्त जवळ जात होते. या मालिकेत पुढे आले ते मनाली परिसरातील देओतिब्बा बेस आणि सौर ताल हे ट्रेक्स. या ट्रेक्स दरम्यान हिमालयाच्या रौद्रतेचेही दर्शन झाले. भयानक पाऊस, गारपीट यांनी नाकीनऊ आणले होते पण त्यातही एक वेगळाच थरार होता. देओतिब्बाच्या ट्रेक मध्ये भरपूर प्राणी पक्षी बघता आले. आएबक्स,माउंटन विझल, हिमालयीन स्टोट असे क्वचित दर्शन देणारे प्राणी तसेच हिमालयन मोनाल हा सुंदर पक्षी जो हिमाचल प्रदेशाचा स्टेट बर्ड आहे. हिमालयन ग्रिफ़ौन, सिनारीयस व्हल्चर सारखे पक्षी दिसणे ही सुद्धा पर्वणीच होती. झाडा-फुलांची विविधताही भरपूर. ह्रोडोडेन्ड्रोनची झाडे पूर्ण सौन्दार्यानिशी फुललेली असायची. अक्रोडांची भलीमोठी झाडे अंगावर नाजूक फुले घेऊन उभी असायची. ज्युनिपरच्या झुडूपांनी पायवाटाही आच्छादलेल्या असायच्या. आयरीसच्या निळ्या-जांभळ्या फुलांची मैदानांमध्ये रांगोळी असायची. सभोवतालच्या या सृष्टीसौन्दार्यानी अवघड वाटांवर चढतानाही प्रसन्न वाटायचे. 

           अशा या हिमालयाचे माझे वेड दिवसागणिक वाढतच जाणारे आहे. खरे तर हे वेड नाही एक व्यसनच आहे. एक सुंदर, हवेहवेसे वाटणारे व्यसन. सगळ्यांनी आवर्जून करावे असे व्यसन. हिमालयातल्या त्या वातावरणात पक्ष्यांचा साधा किलबिलाटही भारावून टाकणारा असतो. शांततेच्या वेळी एखाद्या धनगराच्या बासरीची धून कानाला सुखावून जाते तर कधी रात्रीच्या अंधारात उठलेली कोल्हेकुई अंगाला शहारा आणते. हिमालयातली आभाळाशी स्पर्धा करणारी हिमशिखरे असोत वा प्रचंड खोल दऱ्या असोत; गोठलेली तळी अथवा सुसाट वेगाने वाहणाऱ्या नद्या असोत; सुंदर कलाकुसरीची मंदिरे असोत किंवा  लाकडी घरे असोत; हिमालयाची प्रत्येक गोष्ट तुम्हाला स्वतःकडे आकर्षित करते. तुम्ही जेव्हा रोजच्या कंटाळवाण्या आयुष्यातून वेळ काढून हिमालयाच्या कुशीत जाता तेव्हा तुम्ही पूर्णपणे भिन्न व्यक्ती बनलेले  असता. सगळ्या चिंता, त्रास मागे सोडून आलेले असता. हिमालयाचे भव्य दिव्य रूप पहिले की  माणसाला स्वतःच्या तुच्छतेची जाणीव होते आणि मग सगळा अहंकार मागे पडतो. निसर्गाबद्दलचा आदर दुणावतो.

           जेव्हा मी हिमालयाचा विचार करते तेव्हा जाणवते कि हिमालयाचे सौंदर्य केवळ तिथल्या हिमशिखरांत किंवा निसर्गातच नाही तर तिथे राहणाऱ्या लोकांमध्येही आहे. सुंदर चेहरेपट्टी आणि त्याहून सुंदर, निर्मळ स्वभाव. हिमालयाच्या छायेत राहणारे हे रहिवासी अत्यंत मैत्रीपूर्ण आणि सदैव हसरे आहेत. त्यांचे राहणीमान खूप कष्टाचे असूनही कधीही त्याबद्दल तक्रारीचा सूर त्यांच्या बोलण्यात डोकावत नाही. आणि या जीवनपद्धतीमूळेच कदाचित त्यांच्या वागण्यात नम्रपणा, प्रेमळपणा, निसर्गाबाद्दलचा आदर ठासून भरलेला दिसतो. म्हणूनच नेहमी मदतीसाठी तयार असलेले हे लोक मोठमोठ्या शहरांतल्या आत्मकेंद्रित माणसांपेक्षा जास्त आपलेसे वाटतात. 
           अशा या हिमालयाच्या कितीही वाऱ्या केल्या तरी त्या कमीच वाटतात. आजही लेह-लडाख , काश्मीर , ईशान्य भारत , नेपाळ, भूतान, तिबेट अशी कितीतरी ठिकाणे मला खुणावताहेत आणि तिथे भेट द्यायची इच्छा भविष्यात पूर्ण होईलही पण एक गोष्ट कायम जाणवते कि या विशाल हिमालयाचे सौंदर्य पूर्णपणे अनुभवण्यासाठी एकच काय पण सात जन्मही अपुरेच आहेत!!
           
              
              
                    

Tuesday, 11 March 2014

NASIK: A CLIMBING PILGRIMAGE



          NASIK: A CLIMBING PILGRIMAGE

              
              Maharashtra has been well known for its historical forts among the  trekkers. Many of these treks have climbing patches to get to the top. Some of these mountains have pinnacles which rock climbers are attracted to climb on. Decade ago rock climbing was less known than the trekking. But then people got to know the thrill in rock climbing and some of them got out specially to explore climbing routes in Sahyadri. Our Sahyadri mountain range has so many climbing sites along with beautiful forts. There are many pinnacles in Maharashtra like Vajeer, Ban, Bhatoba, Khada Parshi and many many more. Konkan kada of Harishchandra gad is epic climbing site for Big wall and Traditional climbers. 

              In earlier years, Nasik was known for pinnacles and traditional climbing routes. Pahine Navra, Pahine Navri, Dangya, Hadbichi Shendi, Sunday1 and many more pinnacles attract climbers to Nasik. Fort Harihar, near Trimbakeshwar has Scottish cliff which was first climbed by Doug Scott. Then sports climbing and bouldering got attention of Indian climbers. Advance climbing gears got available to climbers. In past few years many rock climbing areas have been explored in Pune and Mumbai region but Nasik hasn’t been that much explored. It was also because of lack of climbers in Nasik. But now climbing community is increasing in Nasik. And they are making efforts to discover more and more climbing areas in Nasik region. 

                                  (Pahine Navra and Pahine Navri Pinnacles Of Anjaneri)

             
               Our friend  Climbers from Mumbai( Vaibhav, Sandeep, Shyam, Mangesh, Vinay )and Pune ( Viakas Satarkar, Bhushan, Ranjit, Ganesh) visited Nasik few years back and we took them to Anjaneri fort where some good bouldering  routes were opened and some Boulders still stand tall as projects for climbers. In Last couple of years, a known climber from Nasik, Samiran Kolhe has bolted some nice sports routes at Ramshej fort and Anjaneri fort with fellow climbers Pranav Wamanacharya, Pranav Bhanose, Vinod Peerapur, and Tuhin Satarkar from Pune. That includes 5c to 7c grade routes at Ramshej and Anjaneri and one multi pitch route at Anjaneri  named High Ambitions. High Ambitions was climbed by Samiran in december 2013 and this climb was filmed by couple of Americans for a documentary film on climbing in India. In this February, Rockclimbers Nasik group explored some new boulders at Anjaneri with friend climbers from Bikaner. Kishan  Rajpurohit and Ankit  Sharma. They have enjoyed climbing sports routes at Ramshej and bouldering at Anjaneri and they are looking forward to explore more. 



               Anjaneri fort is a place which has potential for all kinds of climbing routes.  It has 5 pinnacles (Pahine Navra, Pahine Navri, Anjaneri Navra, Anjaneri Navri, Karavali). Also Sunday 1, Sunday 2 pinnacles are very nearby. Anjaneri has 300-400 ft of rock walls to open multi pitch sports routes. (5-6 sports routes are already  been bolted by Samiran Kolhe.) There are many boulders at the base of fort and at back side of fort, near Pahine Village. Some bouldering routes have already been climbed there, graded from V2 to V7 and there are still unfinished projects which can be more than V8. Members of Rockclimbers Nasik group Bhushan, Sanket, Jitendra, Bhupesh, Sagar have explored some awesome high boulders in last visit to Anjaneri which are around fifteen to twenty feet tall.

 

            There is still vast area, waiting to be explored by climbers. Countless rocks, waiting  to come out of shadows. Nasik has so much to offer to climbers. There can be routes for beginners to masters. An event like climbing competition or rock trip would be a good platform to bring Nasik on map of climbing areas. Rockclimbers Nasik group invites all the fellow climbers from India to visit Nasik and open new awesome routes for future generation of climbers. And bring this rock treasure to light.
                                      

Tuesday, 4 March 2014

LIVING YOUR PASSION:ROCK CLIMBING




ROCK CLIMBING::SYNERGY BETWEEN BODY , MIND AND INTTELIGENCE


        I used to write as a hobby. Got some articles published in Marathi news papers. But then couldn’t find good subject to write on and my writing fell behind. My dear ones wanted me to start it again, and thanks to their motivation I am writing this.
        I was actually delaying writing ,thinking that who’s going to read my blog and on what subject will I write. But then suddenly I got a good subject which was always in front of me, ROCK CLIMBING. My sport. Rock climbing is a very less known sport in world specially in our country. Doesn’t have the glamour like cricket or tennis but in my opinion climbing is the only sport which requires each and every aspect of person , every sense to be strong and sharp. Climbing actually can be described as synergy between body , mind and even intellect. Question is ‘how so?’
       For those who don’t know what rock climbing is, its not just climbing the mountains or trekking. Rock climbing so far different from trekking. There are specific routes on rock walls or boulders or on artificial climbing walls which have to be climbed with limited holds.
       When we take other sports, like outdoor sports which need improved physical strength, techniques. In indoor games like chess or carom, one should be perfected in aim, or totally depends on intelligence. But when it comes to Rock climbing, person is actually dealing with his life, when he is on rock , 100fts above the ground , and that time only physical strength or only intelligence doesn’t help. He has to synchronize his physical strength, breathing, will power, mental focus, intelligence to determine moves, awareness of surroundings and technique at the very same time. Taking a fall is also a very essential technique in climbing. Even meditation and visualization is practised by some climbers before climbing high grade routes. So climbing literally includes all senses.
        This is the one sport where you are on your own while climbing. No one can help you climb or make your climb bad. So you can’t hold someone else responsible for your success or failure. There is no room for blame games when it comes to performing in climbing competitions. It is an individual game.
         Rock climbing also helps person to become a better human being. In climbing one has to put his life to risk. That makes a person to understand the preciousness of life he has got. Your attitude towards other people changes. you start respecting people, learning from them, start helping others who look up to you for guidance. And you actually feel the joy in being around so many people. It makes you a social person. You go to various places in India and abroad, meet new cultures, make new friends. All this exploration makes you humble in many ways and keeps you down to earth always. Climbing is a healthy competition. Climbers climb high grades for their own satisfaction, for their passion. When someone climbs that climbers hardest route , he actually feels great about it, encourages the other climbers to reach new heights. This attitude teaches you to be happy about someone else’s success which is very hard thing to do these days.
         Huge advantage of climbing is, it takes you closer to the nature and its creations. You actually fall in love with rocks. Even small boulder makes you feel like you have got the treasure. Nature makes you humble in every possible way. Now a days many girls and even physically challenged people are finding climbing as passion. Climbing gives them self-confidence, will power and self realization that they are not less than anyone else , in fact they are better than many other people in so called strong society.
          People are reluctant to get in climbing because of the risk factor of the sport but now number of climbers is increasing , thanks to the passionate climbers who do everything to promote this awesome sport among the youngsters. India is a paradise for climbers. Our country has so many types or rocks to climb on. Every mountain range has its different type of rock formation. Funny part is foreign climbers are more fascinated by our rocks than our own people. But fortunately the situation is changing. Indian climbers are making their mark on international level. Climbers from India have won silver, bronze and also gold medals in international climbing competitions. (Gold in Asian Youth Championship (Ankit Sharma, Debala Devi, Neha Prakash), Gold in Para climbing World Cup ( Manikandan Kumar).) Some best Indian climbers are increasing their grade of climbing and they are now part of international climbing teams. Pioneer of professional climbing in India is our own best climber 'Vaibhav Mehta’ who is inspiring young generation to get into climbing. Club like Girivihar( Navi Mumbai) which conducts the very first and the only International bouldering competition in India,which is also recognized by IFSC is example of passionate climbers who literally give their everything to promote this sport. Now its time for other people to support these efforts by promoting and financing these kinds of events and sponsoring Indian climbers to train hard with advance equipments n facilities and go climbing internationally. These efforts will help rock climbing flourish as sport and get recognition as professional sport too.
           At the end , only thought comes to mind is CLIMBING IS FUN. UNTAINTED JOY.